Wednesday, July 6, 2016

The Desert

I have been through the desert on a camel with no name.
We started our day early to beat the intense desert heat. When we got to Masada, the temperature was about 21 degrees Celsius (70 F). Masada was a mountain palace built by Herod, which could also conveniently withstand a siege if necessary. After the destruction of the temple in 70 AD, the remaining rebels fled to Masada. The Romans, commanded by Lucius Flavius Silva, a relative of the emperor Vespasian, prosecuted a siege against the stronghold, first circumvallating the mountain and then building a siege ramp to the top. As we ascended the mountain, the remains of Roman castrae were visible, together with the outline of the wall. Smaller camps were set up at intervals along the wall, probably holding about a cohort of soldiers. On the far side of the cable car, there was a much larger castra, likely the first one built where the legion stayed on the first few days and then later where the headquarters was. Masada as a complex had all the comforts. It was a beautiful palace once, and the remains could still be seen. It boasted a full Roman bath, along with numerous ritual baths and well-designed cisterns. When we left Masada, the temperature had nearly doubled, resting at a comfortable 37 degrees celsius (99 F). Our next stop was Qumran, where the dead sea scrolls were found. Outside there was a fascinating complex where a sectarian community once lived, called the Essenes. Aside from that, Qumran was literally nothing more than a cave atop a 300 foot drop in the blazing heat. By the time we left Qumran, it had reached 41 degrees celsius (106 F) and we headed to the dead sea. I elected not to go in the water as I was already feeling somewhat dehydrated. By the end the temperature had reached a pleasant 45 degrees (113 F) and we went home. It was wonderful coming back to Jerusalem where it was not higher than 27 degrees. At any rate, the heat was prostrating and I will now drink much water.

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